Voron 床粘合指南 — 不再出现翘曲或第一层失效的情况
故障排查 校准 First Layer
A failed first layer means a failed print. On Voron printers, which are built for high-temp materials like ABS and polycarbonate, bed adhesion isn't just about getting the first layer to stick — it's about keeping the part stuck through 200+ layers while the enclosure bakes at 55°C and the part cools unevenly. This guide covers everything from choosing the right build surface to dialing in Z offset and preventing corner warp. 最后更新时间:2025 年 5 月。
我们将从最常见的问题开始:我应该在什么表面上打印?然后进行 Z 偏移调整(良好附着力的机械基础)、表面处理(化学层),最后进行翘曲预防(热策略)。每个部分都是独立的,因此您可以跳转到您需要的主题。
构建表面比较
您打印的表面是对床粘附力影响最大的一个变量。以下是最常见的 Voron 曲面的比较:
| 表面 | 解放军 | ABS | 聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯 | 耐用性 | 成本 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PEI 光滑(弹簧钢) | 出色的 | 好的 | 差(粘得太好) | 3-6个月 | $$ |
| PEI 纹理(粉末涂层) | 好的 | 好的 | 出色的 | 6-12个月 | $$$ |
| G10/FR4(加洛莱特) | 好的 | 出色的 | 出色的 | 12 个月以上 | $ - 低成本 |
| PEX(富拉门/Wham Bam) | 好的 | 非常好 | 好的 | 6-9个月 | $$$ |
| 普通弹簧钢(无涂层) | 公平的 | 贫穷的 | 公平的 | 不适用 | $ |
Voron 打印机的推荐设置
对于 ABS 打印(Voron 的主要用例): G10/FR4 is the community favorite. A 3mm thick sheet of G10 costs about $8-15 from China-direct suppliers, outperforms PEI for ABS adhesion, and lasts over a year with proper care. It's also easy to rejuvenate — just sand with 400-grit when adhesion drops.
万能: Dual-sided spring steel with PEI smooth on one side and PEI textured on the other. This gives you smooth PEI for PLA/ABS and textured PEI for PETG. The spring steel flex makes part removal easy.
预算: A plain spring steel sheet with a thin layer of ABS slurry or hairspray. This works surprisingly well for ABS but requires reapplying every 5-10 prints.
Z 偏移调整 — 基础
再多的附着力促进剂也无法修复不良的 Z 轴偏移。 Z 偏移决定喷嘴将第一层灯丝压在床上的紧密程度。做到这一点,大多数粘附问题就会消失。
纸质方法(初始设置)
- Home the printer with
G28 - 将打印床加热至您的打印温度(ABS 为 100°C,PLA 为 60°C)
- 将喷嘴加热至 150°C(热到足以处理热量,冷到足以不燃烧)
- Move the nozzle to the centre of the bed with
G1 X150 Y150 Z5 F3000 - 在喷嘴和打印床之间放置一张标准打印纸
- 以 0.1 毫米的增量降低 Z,直到纸张有轻微的阻力 - 拉动时您应该感觉到阻力,但不会太大以至于纸张撕裂
- Save that as your Z offset with
SAVE_CONFIG
纸质方法可以让您接近,但对于可靠的第一层来说它不够精确。下一步至关重要。
床网 + 实时 Z 调整
- Run
BED_MESH_CALIBRATEto map the bed surface - 开始第一层测试打印(单层正方形,100x100mm,0.2mm高度)
- During the print, use
SET_Z_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.01orZ_ADJUST=+0.01to tune the nozzle height live - 观察挤出图案——调整直至线条平整并融合在一起,没有间隙,没有粗糙的纹理
读取第一层挤出质量
第一层告诉您有关 Z 偏移的所有信息。看一下挤出的线条:
- Z 轴偏移太高(喷嘴距离床太远): Lines are round, not flat. There are gaps between adjacent lines. The print doesn't stick — it may drag around or peel up immediately. Fix: lower Z offset by 0.02-0.05mm.
- Z 偏移太低(喷嘴太近): Lines are transparent or very thin. The surface feels rough or has ridges. The extruder may skip steps because it can't push filament through the tiny gap. The print may stick but the bottom surface looks like sandpaper. Fix: raise Z offset by 0.02-0.05mm.
- Z 轴偏移正确: Lines are flat and wide (about 140-160% of nozzle width for a 0.4mm nozzle). Adjacent lines touch and fuse. The surface is smooth with a slight matte texture. The print sticks firmly but can be removed without excessive force.
第一层速度: 20-30 mm/s for the first layer. This is slow enough to allow proper squish and adhesion. Increase to 40 mm/s only after you've verified adhesion is reliable.
第一层高度: 0.2mm is the sweet spot for 0.4mm nozzles. At 0.3mm, the extrusion is rounder and less squished against the bed. At 0.15mm or below, you risk the nozzle dragging through the previous line.
打印表面准备和清洁
如果床表面有指纹、旧胶水或存储袋中迁移的增塑剂残留的油污,即使完美调整的 Z 偏移也会失败。
清洁时间表
- 每次打印之间: Quick wipe with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol (IPA) using a lint-free cloth or paper towel. This removes surface dust, skin oils, and light residue. Allow 10-15 seconds for the IPA to evaporate before starting the print.
- 打印 5-10 次后: Wash with warm water and dish soap (Dawn or Simple Green). Scrubbing with a soft sponge removes built-up residue that IPA can't dissolve. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. Do NOT touch the surface afterward — finger oils instantly degrade adhesion.
- 切勿在 PEI 上使用丙酮: Acetone dissolves the PEI coating. A single wipe with acetone can ruin a PEI sheet permanently. For PEI surfaces, use IPA only for between-print cleaning and soap/water for deep cleaning.
粘合促进剂
当单独清洁还不够时(常见于大型 ABS 零件或高翘曲材料),请使用以下方法之一:
- 发胶(Aquanet Extra Super Hold): The Voron community standard. Apply a light, even coat from about 20cm distance before preheating the bed. The hairspray dries to a tacky film that holds ABS firmly. Reapply every 3-5 prints. A $3 can lasts months.
- Magigoo / Vision Miner 纳米聚合物粘合剂: Fingertip applicator, no fumes, excellent for ABS and polycarbonate. Apply before heating, lasts 10-20 prints before reapplication. Costs more ($15-20) but convenient and clean.
- ABS浆料: Dissolve small scraps of ABS filament in acetone until it's the consistency of thin paint. Brush onto the build surface. This provides a chemical bond — the ABS in the slurry fuses with the printed ABS. Works extremely well but creates fumes and residue. Only for open-surface G10 or glass — never use on PEI.
- 3DLAC(欧洲): Similar to Aquanet hairspray but formulated specifically for 3D printing. Excellent adhesion, easy cleanup with warm water.
- 百特棒/胶棒: Works well for PETG on smooth PEI (acts as a release agent so PETG doesn't fuse to the PEI). Less ideal for ABS — adhesion is adequate but not great.
防止翘曲 — 保持 ABS 平整
发生翘曲是因为打印部件冷却不均匀。底层在床上保持热度,而顶层则冷却并收缩,将角向上拉。这是 ABS 打印在 Voron 打印机上失败的第一大原因——即使具有完美的附着力,热应力也会使零件从床上弹出。
腔室温度
The Voron enclosure is designed to maintain a stable chamber temperature. For ABS, target 45-60℃ inside the chamber. Below 40°C, ABS parts will warp on large flat surfaces. Above 65°C, you risk heat creep into the extruder and degraded print quality.
加热室: Let the bed preheat at 100-110°C for 15-20 minutes before starting the print. This allows the chamber to heat soak. On V2.4, the bed is the primary heat source. On Trident, the Z steppers don't generate significant heat, so chamber warm-up is slower. Consider adding a chamber heater (e.g., 100W PTC heater with a thermistor and controller) if you print ABS frequently and your ambient room temperature is below 20°C.
测量室温度: Add a chamber thermistor to your Klipper config:
<pre><code>[temperature_sensor chamber] sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC4 max_temp: 100帽檐和老鼠耳朵
帽沿: A brim adds 8-15mm of single-layer material around the part perimeter. This increases the contact area with the bed and distributes the contraction stress over a wider area. In your slicer, set brim width to 8mm for small parts and 15mm for large parts (200mm+ in any dimension). Brim line count of 15-25 is typical.
老鼠耳朵: For parts with sharp corners, a brim may not be enough. Mouse ears (also called tabs or corner pads) are small discs of 5-10mm radius added at each corner. They increase the corner's contact area and prevent the classic 45° corner peel. In SuperSlicer, use the "primitives" option. In OrcaSlicer, add discs as modifiers.
床上的零件方向
零件方向对翘曲有显着影响。关键原则:最小化垂直于 Y 轴(最大热应力轴)的连续周长的长度。
- 避免垂直于 Y 的尖角: A long flat wall parallel to Y will contract and pull the corners up. Rotate the part 45° so no edge runs perfectly parallel to the Y axis.
- 分割大零件: If the part is wider than 200mm in any direction, consider splitting it into two pieces and joining after printing. The contraction force scales with the square of the part length — a 300mm part has 2.25x the warp force of a 200mm part.
- 使用木筏: A 0.3mm gap raft with 0.5mm thick base layers absorbs the contraction stress before it reaches the part. Rafts are wasteful (more material, longer print time) but extremely effective for difficult geometries.
- 薄壁零件: For parts with thin walls (1-2 perimeters), use a lower layer height (0.12-0.16mm) to reduce the contraction force per layer.
冷却管理
ABS 需要最少的冷却——足以桥接悬垂部分,但又不会过多以致零件冷却不均匀。在 Voron Stealthburner 或 Afterburner 的 Klipper 配置中:
<pre><code>[fan_generic part_cooling_fan] pin: PA7 max_power: 0.8 shutdown_speed: 0.0 [gcode_macro M106] gcode: {% set S = params.S|default(0)|int %} # For ABS, cap fan speed at 30% max {% set ABS_MAX = 30 %} {% set effective_speed = (S * ABS_MAX / 255)|round|int %} SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=part_cooling_fan SPEED={effective_speed / 255.0}对于 ABS,风扇速度应为最大 0-30%。对于PLA,你可以跑到100%。切勿以全速运行 ABS——快速冷却会导致分层和翘曲。
诊断第一层问题
常见第一层问题的快速参考:
- 灯丝根本不会粘连: Z offset too high, or dirty bed surface. Clean with IPA, re-check Z offset.
- 打印过程中,细丝粘连但在角落处剥落: Chamber too cold, or no brim. Increase chamber temp to 50°C+, add 10mm brim.
- 灯丝粘得太紧 - 无法移除部分: Z offset too low (nozzle too close). Or printing PETG on smooth PEI without release agent. Raise Z offset by 0.03mm, or apply a thin layer of glue stick as release agent.
- 第一层有脊或粗糙的纹理: Z offset too low. Raise by 0.02mm increments until smooth.
- 第一层线之间有间隙: Z offset too high. Lower by 0.02mm increments until lines fuse.
- 尽管第一层良好,但零件仍会变形: Thermal issue. Increase chamber temperature, add brim, or use ABS slurry.
- 局部粘连失败(床上的一处): Uneven bed mesh. Re-run
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE. Check for debris under the build plate or a warped heater pad.
维护计划
良好的附着力是一种习惯,而不是一次性的修复。请遵循此时间表:
- 每次打印: Wipe bed with IPA. Visually inspect first layer during the first 30 seconds of the print.
- 每周: Wash PEI or G10 surface with warm water and dish soap. Check bed mesh variance — re-tram if variance exceeds 0.1mm.
- 每月: Inspect build surface for scratches, PEI peeling, or uneven wear. Sand G10 with 400-grit paper if adhesion has degraded. Check that the spring steel sheet lies perfectly flat — warped sheets should be replaced.
- 每条灯丝变化: Verify Z offset — different filaments have different melt characteristics and may need a 0.01-0.02mm offset adjustment.
凭借正确的表面、适当的 Z 偏移、清洁习惯和热管理,Voron 上的 ABS 打印件应该粘在整个打印件上,并在冷却时干净地脱模。如果您已遵循本指南但仍然存在粘附问题,则问题几乎肯定是腔室温度 - 在购买更昂贵的打印板之前投资腔室热敏电阻和加热器。